I enjoy making this bread whenever I have leftover mashed potatoes that need to be used up. BUT, I will make mashed potatoes specifically to be used in this bread when I’m going to be making toasted bacon and tomato sandwiches.
Toasted Bacon and Tomato Sandwich on Whole Wheat Potato Bread
The mashed potatoes do a couple of things. First off since they don’t contain gluten we get a somewhat denser bread. I say somewhat because it is nowhere as dense as a rye, triticale, spelt or barley loaf. The reduction in gluten is to some extent mitigated by the easily converted starches that give the yeast an extra boost. At the same time we get a moister loaf. The combination makes for a great toasting bread – and great toast is the foundation of a great bacon and tomato sandwich!
Originally potato bread was used to stretch more expensive wheat flour but today the bread merits being included in your baking rotation on its own merits alone. That said, it remains a great way to put that little bit of mashed potatoes remaining after some meals to good use in your daily bread!
Rolling whole wheat crackers directly on silicon baking sheet
The prices for a box of great crackers is pretty steep, but you don’t have to eat that cost to make a great foundation for cheese or smoked salmon – just make your own.
It is actually very easy and fast to produce your own crackers at home, in fact you’d probably be able to get them done and cooling before you’d have been able to fetch them in a trip to your local grocery store. Like any baking and cooking you also gain the advantage of being able to tailor the recipe to your taste.
This process is extra easy if you roll the crackers right out onto silicon baking sheets – then after scoring them you can slip them onto baking sheets.
So easy and yet so good – you’ll really impress yourself with these so go ahead and make some.
I often work on rusty kit -so I always ensure my tetanus vaccination is always up to date, and I have penetrating oil on hand to help free rusted parts.
Homemade penetrating oil alongside commercial products and a can of white gas.
If the requirement is small or time sensitive I will generally use a commercial product. The ones I make sure to keep on hand are lanolin (wool grease) based – because they are not only good penetrating oils, but because the lanolin is an excellent way to protect metal against rust without establishing a gummy surface that would require a lot of clean-up before the tool can be used.
But when I have bigger projects that require a lot of penetrating oil – such as the corn binder that I am rebuilding for sweet sorghum harvesting – I turn to homemade penetrating oil which costs a fraction of the commercial products, and while it may not work quite as quickly that price advantage is considerable.
Quite simply you want to use a light oil – that can be diesel – which I’ve used very successfully to free up stuck engines or a mix of a heavier oil – such as an engine or transmission oil – and a light solvent such as acetone, paint thinner or my favorite naphtha – also known as white gas or Coleman fuel. All will work just fine but I keep naphtha on hand for my camping stoves and find that it doesn’t have the odor that acetone does. Generally I add between 10 and 20 percent solvent to the oil depending upon the starting weight of the oil and how much I slop in (accuracy isn’t very important here in my experience). Mix the two in a container and then use a regular oil can to dispense them. Easy as can be and priced right.
Super chocolaty brownies made with whole barley flour
These brownies are crazy awesome good. Frankly they are soooo chocolaty that it masks most (but not all) of the sweet nuttiness that I love from the whole barley flour. These are really really good, and so quick to prepare that you’ll be able to whip them up and have them in the oven in under five minutes – washing your bowl will take as long as the prep.
This recipe is also a great one to hand to new bakers (of all ages). Unlike cookies which are fun but can be a bit time consuming these brownies are pretty close to instant gratification and there is really little chance of it being screwed up.
If you have younger bakers you might find the mixing a bit of a challenge with a wooden spoon. Pick up some Danish Whisks and the kids will be able to do all of the mixing themselves. Once you’ve got them in your kitchen drawer they will end up being your default mixing tool they are that good.
A visit to the local Princess Auto store (roughly the Canadian equivalent to the American Harbor Freight stores) when I was in high school netted me an arc welder that was heavily discounted because the manufacturer had mistakenly shipped the wrong model to the store. That purchase proved to be the catalyst that saw me gradually get drawn deeper and deeper into metal working.
Wire Feed / MIG welder an important addition to the homestead shop
Since then I’ve picked up a number of different welding systems, oxy-acetylene, engine driven stick welders, plasma, MIG and finally a spot welder.
It’s the MIG / wire feed welder though that ends up being the sixth most important power tool (in my opinion) to add to your workshop – and the one that will really open up a big segment of metal working to you.
Since I have and regularly use a number of different welding systems you would be right to question why the MIG is the first one that I suggest you should get, particularly since it was one of the last to actually assume a place in my own shop.
Simply, a MIG/wire feed welder offers the best combination of capacity, learning curve and price among all of the welding systems I have. On price – the 170 amp unit I have from Harbor Freight is on offer as I write this for $190, but I am reasonably sure that there will be some discount coupon in the next few months that knocks that price down to about $150 – which is very reasonable indeed.
Necessary accessories – auto darkening welding helmet, gloves and wire brush – along with a partially finished grain mill
While a stick arc welder could be had at a similar price point, the learning curve for this latter welding setup is more difficult. A wire fed rig by comparison is downright simple. It’s not quite “If you can pull a trigger you can be a welder” but it’s not that far off. Likewise, a wire fed rig will allow you to weld a greater range of material thicknesses that are of interest to a home shop fabricator. You can work on fairly substantial thicknesses of steel – not as heavy as can be handled by stick arc welding – but probably most of what you’ll be doing on one side. But then unlike the arc welder you’ll be able to effectively weld sheet steel – like car and truck panels – that a stick welder would find difficult to handle.
On the Oxy-Acetylene side the learning curve isn’t significantly different from a MIG. It is probably even easier if you get a torch like the Henrob. But, the cost – especially if you are going to be doing run of the mill work – is going to be several times what a MIG would run you when you figure in the cost of decent sized tanks.
Now, I really appreciate having both of those systems in my shop, but I have no hesitation in recommending folks grab a MIG/wire feed as their first welder. For some it may prove to be all the welder you’ll ever need. Others may find it simply serves as an introduction to what is possible for them to accomplish and serve as their own catalyst to broaden their metal welding systems.
There are folks who revel in roughing it when they head into the bush. That’s not me. Now don’t get me wrong, I love the outdoors and think glamping is silly but while I am perfectly capable of living rough if need be, if I can make things more comfortable for myself I will. That includes food.
Cinnamon buns cooked over the campfire
Much of my camping is done by canoe – so even if there are portages the size and weight constraints aren’t that rigorous – which makes more diverse outdoor fare reasonable. These campfire cinnamon buns are a case in point. Having these with coffee in the morning while looking out over still waters with the mist rising off them is a pretty awesome experience.
Now most would expect to need a stove to bake cinnamon buns – or at the very least a reflector oven, but these are cooked in much the same way as you would the english muffins we already covered – as griddle cakes in a frypan – which makes them much more reasonable to produce.
Dough rolled out ready for cinnamon and sugar
What I prefer to do is use an extra large ziplock bag – add flour – I prefer to use the whole wheat ground on the diy grain mill – add a pinch of salt, some yeast, a bit of sugar and then add water until you have a sticky dough. You can do an ok job of roughly kneading the dough while it remains in the ziplock bag. Since I generally do this step just before turning in for the night – I generally don’t do a second knead. Make sure the air is out of the bag and don’t get carried away and make too big a batch, and place the bag in a warm spot overnight.
Something spectacular to wake up to
In the morning open the bag, punch down the dough, pull out dough balls, flour roll out, and sprinkle sugar and cinnamon on the dough and then roll up and cut as you would with regular cinnamon rolls. Allow them to rise and then place them in an greased frying pan. I often just use a couple of pieces of bacon to provide the fat needed to render the surface non stick.
Cook over low heat on one side for a bit, then flip and cook on the other. Alternate sides until the buns are cooked through. Allow to cool slightly and serve with a bit of butter if you have any along. Enjoy.
Ah summer… it’s the time that you least want to congregate in the kitchen – and that’s saying something considering I really like cooking. But come on, sun, sand, deck, bbq.. let’s try to save wear and tear on our kitchens and instead work on quick and easy recipes.
So my summer cooking and baking rules – especially for the cottage – Super Quick, Super Good and Super Simple.
This baked maple custard fits the bill in spades – and since it uses ingredients you should always have around it’s a great last minute desert option.
Sheet steel bent and welded to form shroud for the homestead grain mill
You might not expect this coming from someone who puts up a significant number of posts discussing tools and the projects that can be accomplished with them… deep breath – you can accomplish a lot without much in the way of tools.
Specialized tools can really speed up work and make projects easier – but you can accomplish some pretty cool things with very simple processes. Case in point – forming curves aka radius bends in sheet steel would normally be done with slip rolls – but you can do a very acceptable work for a lot of jobs using only a piece of pipe mounted in a vice. Sure it takes a bit longer than putting it through the rolls – but in a lot of cases it will get the job done just fine.
Build a grain mill
Frankly, I really value the options and capacity my tools provide. But, I have been building my workshop for over two decades, and while some folks might go out and drop several grand on tools it seems more reasonable to expect that most folks would want to dip their toes in the water first to see if doing more mechanical work is really something they want to take on before dropping big sums of cash (if they do have that financial freeboard).
Fortunately a lot can be done with relatively low cost tools and simple techniques. I’m building another grain mill – this time for a friend so I decided I’d take a few short videos to show just how easy it is to build the grain mill since I know the finished product is probably pretty intimidating to most. Check out the book Building the Homestead Grain mill for all of the detailed instructions on how you can build your own professional grade grain mill using simple tools.
I generally really like Harbor Freight products – and I have a lot of them. I’ve got some of the largest of their tools – the 2hp mill-drill and their 9×20 metal lathe, some of their smaller tools including the 170A mig welder and 9″ angle grinder as well as a bunch of their hand tools. Pretty much all hands down wins in terms of bang for the buck.
So when I decided that I was going to fabricate a wood fired pizza oven from stainless steel I figured I would pick up the very reasonably priced HF “Chicago Electric” spot welder.
Harbor Freight “Chicago Electric” spot welder
Spot welding was my first introduction to welding when in grade 7 metal shop classes at Shaftsbury High School in Winnipeg where we built wind chimes and the galvanized steel top section was joined by spot welding. It was a real shop, and a real shop class, with a real shop teacher – who my father and I bumped into from time to time when we were out hunting upland game. As a pretty good student (not just in shop class) I got a bit more latitude in the class which was great.
Anyway, my memory of using that spot welder was that it was a pretty useful piece of kit, which influenced my decision to go that route for joining the segments for the pizza oven.
Of all of the HF tools that I have, the spotwelder comes the closest to failing to deliver to my expectations, and that’s probably because I set my expectations too high.
The unit handles joining 0.0200 stainless steel pieces just great, it can’t handle 0.0400 pieces. The other issue is that the points deform rather quickly and there is only one more set included with the welder. Replacements are available for the miller welders but those are pretty expensive – as in $30 at my local welding shop. If you have a lathe you can machine your own but it is a major hit that Harbor Freight doesn’t have replacements on the rack.
I guess my feelings towards the spot welder are colored by the fact that when I couldn’t weld the parts for the pizza oven I decided to try my hand at OA welding the stainless… which I had initially discounted as too hard (doooh stupid move that?). I discovered that my Henrob torch was totally suited to welding stainless – with really no more difficulty than welding carbon steel.
Completed spot welded stainless steel English muffin rings
So, with light materials and for a couple of quick welds it’s a good bet. I really liked it for the English muffin rings I put together.
I also think it’s a good option for teaching kids basic metal working – which is basically what it was being used for when I was first introduced to it.
So, take home message… it’s limited in capacity so it’s probably the last welder I’d get but it looks just as solid when you acknowledge its limitations as the other HF kit I’ve grown to love.
We’re onto tool number five this week and that’s where the table saw fits in for me. If you are working wood – and you should – and are doing a lot of cutting or require a significant level of accuracy the table saw stands well above the circular saw that holds the number two spot on the list.
Craftsman contractor table saw
Now my table saw is a craftsman contractor saw model. Now, I chose the “semi” portability of the contractor saws because in the winter it sits in my basement workshop but as soon as the weather improves it gets moved into the garage – and when it’s getting used is placed in the driveway putting the dust outside. It’s also been taken to projects at other homes. I say semi-portability because it is awkward and is a good lift. Now if you only need to roll it around on its wheels – it really is an easy move. BUT, the heft does equate to some really solid construction – and that is key here. DON’T bother cheaping out and getting a small wobbly table saw with a crappy fence – stick to your circular saw until you can afford to get a good saw. As a reference point, the Craftsman I have runs something north of $400. For my purposes it is the best compromise between accuracy, portability and price.
Push sticks, hearing and eye protection – not optional parts of your kit
Now there are a few not so optional accessories you need along with the saw – the hearing and eye protection you should already have – but you will need some push sticks. Push sticks are essential when you are working close to the blade. You can cut these yourself, but purchased plastic ones are cheap and I particularly like the ones that have a grove in the lower surface which allows me to get better purchase on the material.
Now, you’ll note that I don’t have the blade guard in place in the photo’s and videos. Having an unguarded blade is a risk that I am willing to run – and it is a risk. I run it in part because a significant amount of my work involves cutting blind groves in material. That said, I am very careful around the saw, and don’t work with it when I might be tempted to be complacent or in a rush. If you aren’t doing that type of work and prepared to accept the same elevated risk profile leave the blade guard in place.
Combination roller stand – a near necessity to go with your table saw
If you are working with longer or larger materials – sheet goods or lumber you should probably get a roller stand that will allow you to avoid struggling with acquard material – and you don’t want to make a risky move around a saw blade.
My saw has found use building furniture, buildings and of late has seen a lot of work cutting materials to produce bee hive woodware. It wasn’t cheap, but it certainly is a pleasure to use good tools – and it has paid for itself several times over.
If you don’t already have a table saw consider investing in one to add to your workshop as a means of empowering your independence.